The Trastevere quarter

Nanni Moretti has his cinema here, the Nuovo Sacher – and don’t miss the Antica Caciara Trasteverina, a delicatessen run by the same family for 3 generations.

No energy for wandering around the alleyways of the Forum or you just fancy exploring twelve centuries of Roman civilization at a glance? Take a stroll up to the Palatine Hill where you can admire the legendary and breathtakingly beautiful Palatine Hill ruins… The columns of the temple of Castor and Pollux reaching for the sky; the poignant home to the Vestal Virgins with its porticoes and pools; the Curia, fiefdom of the 300 senators with its bronze doors and still-intact bas-reliefs. And, in the background, the imposing silhouette of the Colosseum, the largest amphitheater the Romans ever built.

Nestled in a small paved alleyway covered in greenery, the Gelateria del Teatro attracts a faithful following that swears by its unique combinations. Our favorites? Sage and strawberry, honey and lemon, white peach and lavender… But foodies also enjoy the delicacies with mascarpone, Madagascar vanilla or tiramisu. Savor it without a care in the world, sitting on the steps of the neighboring palazzo, while you watch the world go by.

Epicureans swear by this address, which has reinvented the art of pizza-making with a delicately crispy dough (made by the very talented neighboring baker Pierluigi Roscioli) and a selection of the best organic mozzarella and burrata from Lazio. A special shout-out for the margherita with super-tasty cherry tomatoes and the Zibella e bufala – mozzarella with raw milk with culatello cured ham straight from Emilia Romagna. Also dip into their vegetable carbonara and the homemade ricotta ravioli, paired with a craft beer carefully selected by Emma. Refreshing and delicious!

Pasta, cracked pepper, pecorino and nothing else… In this small brick-walled trattoria, the locals feast on cacio et pepe cooked in the very best traditional way, gnocchi alla romana and a delicious roast suckling lamb, all washed down with a glass of Lazio white (we love the Colli Albani). Next, head for the alleys around Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice to savor the atmosphere of a neighborhood that has kept its popular and nightlife vibe intact.

Created in the 12th century, today this park is one of the most exclusive spots in Rome. Its 23 hectares hide a bucolic landscape of orchards, woods and beds full of flowers and wild grasses, dotted by medieval ruins, Renaissance buildings, caverns, pagodas and pergolas. A unique place where the locals come to recharge their batteries and admire the play of light and shade… But it’s mornings only because the Pope walks there in the afternoons!

This palazzo, built in 1613, was the property of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, an art lover with an incredible flair – he was among the first to spot Rubens, Bernini and Caravaggio. In the space of 25 years, he managed to assemble one of the finest collections in the world, which can now be seen in his unchanged apartments. All in one place you can admire Bellini’s Madonna and Child, Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, and Bernini’s incredible sculpture of Apollo and Daphne. To escape from Apollo, who was bewitched by her beauty, the goddess gradually metamorphoses into a laurel tree – her fingers and toes already sprouting leaves and roots. Amazing!

No energy for wandering around the alleyways of the Forum or you just fancy exploring twelve centuries of Roman civilization at a glance? Take a stroll up to the Palatine Hill where you can admire the legendary and breathtakingly beautiful Palatine Hill ruins… The columns of the temple of Castor and Pollux reaching for the sky; the poignant home to the Vestal Virgins with its porticoes and pools; the Curia, fiefdom of the 300 senators with its bronze doors and still-intact bas-reliefs. And, in the background, the imposing silhouette of the Colosseum, the largest amphitheater the Romans ever built.

Right in the heart of one of Rome’s parks on a 2000 m² space, the Voodoo bar is totally unique in the life of the capital. It welcomes its first devotees in the morning for yoga and meditation sessions in its “healing area” while the cooks are already busying themselves at the pizza station, the sushi bar and in the Tropical restaurant from where the fragrance of Caribbean-style cuisine escapes. Over the course of the day, the place fills up with new disciples that have come to explore the latest exhibition and laze around in hammocks or wicker chairs until dusk is heralded in by the flickering of a thousand candles. And from 10 pm onwards, it’s time for concerts and performances…

Tucked away in a sumptuous 17th century palazzo, it offers all the comfort and service you’d expect from a luxury hotel. But it also hides a treasure that is accessible to one and all, but is largely unknown… A rooftop terrace where at dusk you’ll be fascinated by the golden rays of the sun that set the city’s ochres and greens ablaze. Sip a spritz while ensconced on a deep sofa, and amuse yourself by pointing out the dome of St. Peter’s on the other side of the Tiber, the Pantheon’s imposing silhouette or Castel Sant’Angelo and, below, the dazzling Piazza Navona with its baroque fountains. A great spectacle!

It’s a fabulous walk, worth doing time and time again and at all hours of the day and night. There’s no need to plan a route; instead, just wander through the narrow streets and admire the Piazza Navona with its impressive fountains, marvel at the might of the Pantheon, enjoy an ice cream at Giolitti’s, sip a ristretto at the historic San Eustachio, stroll along the aisles of the Campo dei Fiori market, relive the mythical scene of La Dolce Vita with Anita Ekberg in the Fontana di Trevi, and end up in the old Jewish quarter. Before finally wandering down to the waters of the Tiber.

Nanni Moretti has his cinema here, the Nuovo Sacher – and don’t miss the Antica Caciara Trasteverina, a delicatessen run by the same family for 3 generations.

Take a stroll down the aisles to the sound of excellent music and you’ll be sure to find hidden treasure (we loved the Flaminia kimonos and the vintage Restucciart sunglasses).